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Super models12/28/2023 In pure terms, there had been supermodels long before that-at least, if supermodels are defined, as they properly should be, as mannequins whose renown and activities stretch beyond the bubble-world of fashion. It came into more general usage in 1981, when New York magazine published "The Spoiled Supermodels," in which Anthony Haden-Guest, the incisive British journalist, chronicled the myriad misbehaviors of highly paid models and photographers in the cocaine-clouded world of post-Studio-54 New York City. Though many claimed to have coined the term, notably the 1970s model Janice Dickinson, the first recorded use of the word was in a 1948 book, So You Want to Be a Model! by a small-time model agent named Clyde Matthew Dessner. Indeed, it has been so overused that by the late 1990s, when the Supermodel phenomenon (personified by larger-than-life mannequins such as Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, and Christy Turlington) had long-since peaked and passed, the word had lost almost all meaning, becoming a generic gossip-column descriptive promiscuously pinned on almost any fashion model with, or in some cases, merely wanting, a public profile. Ashley France, an influencer who criticized Levi’s partnership with Lalaland, said she hopes regulators will step in."Supermodel" ranks with "genius" and "original" as one of the most-abused terms in the fashion lexicon. Meanwhile, AI models have become so realistic that it’s already impossible for many consumers to distinguish them from images of humans. Representatives for other professionals in creative fields, like the Writers Guild of America, have the power to propose standards and best practices for AI use in their industries. Ziff is advocating for the proposed Fashion Workers Act in New York, which she said would force agencies to more fully disclose the scope of work and pay.Ĭurrent law leaves some gray area around models’ rights to organize unions, Ziff added, resulting in limited labor protections.īecause most models are considered independent contractors, many face heightened risks of being sued or retaliated against by their agencies. Yanii Gough, a model and the founder of Yanii Models, where she works with over 100 models, said that many are still “dying to get back to consistency” as the industry re-emerges from pandemic-related disruptions.Īgents and management companies who book models for the types of jobs Ziff described don’t legally have to tell them their body scans could be used on more projects without compensation, she said. But while AI has been used in fashion for years, some workers are watching its expansion in the space with growing alarm. Worries about technology displacing human labor are nothing new, and they’re far from distinct to the fashion workforce. Lalaland didn’t respond to a request for comment. The retailer said that the AI models it planned to introduce would supplement but not replace its photoshoots with live models. “Let’s make no mistake about it, Levi’s is doing this because this saves them money.”Ī Levi’s spokesperson referred to a statement in which the company denied any intentions to save costs with the project. “When you have to hire a model, book an agency, have a stylist, do the makeup, feed them on set - all that costs money,” said Shawn Grain Carter, a professor of fashion business management at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York.
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